For many magazines this year, a celebrity or top model was not good enough for their September issue cover. It was all about quantity, not quality (or in some rare cases, both.) There were a lot of multiple covers, where the magazine probably couldn’t secure the celebrity they wanted (or were unsure of their choice and wanted to appease everyone), so they shot several stars and had lots of different covers. This is a total cop out to me. A magazine should have the guts to make a statement that they are proud of – and make ONE COVER. The other trend was models, in large quantities. In some cases (Vogue Italia), this was about shooting a truly fabulous magazine cover. In other cases (Vogue US) it seemed like they wanted to appease everyone (and as a result, appease hardly anyone – at least that is how I feel.) Anyway, here is part 1 of my loves and loathes of the September issue covers. Part 2 will follow later this week.
Vogue Italia. 50 models to celebrate their 50 year anniversary – this is amazing. See below for the full image.
MORE MARVELLOUS MAGAZINES
Ask Alexandra is my advice column. Have a question you want to ask me? Fill out the form here. Below are a few letters I’ve received recently that I thought I should answer…
Scotch & Soda menswear.
I’m looking to start a t-shirt line for men using the best possible fabrics available on the market. I live in Los Angeles, CA but the best fabrics I’ve seen are from foreign brands such as Scotch & Soda and other UK brands. Where would I be able to get the same or close to the same quality of fabric the UK designers use on their clothing. If you have other info on Scotch & Soda and their manufacturing process that would be very helpful as well. Thanks!
This is meant to be an advice column on general fashion queries, not a specific sourcing and manufacturing helpline. So no, I can’t tell you about Scotch & Soda’s suppliers or manufacturing process (although I can assume that they are similar to most other manufacturing processes), and the fact that you are asking me this question raises concerns about how much you know about the garment industry… I’m also suspicious of “best possible fabrics on the market…” Anyway, I don’t encourage people who have no fashion industry experience to start their own brands, but if you insist (or perhaps you have experience?), then I would suggest you read up on how to source fabrics (I’ve got some info here) and be prepared to face a lot of frustration because sourcing suppliers for a new fashion company is no easy task! (It’s a hard task for me, and I have industry experience.) And by the way, Scotch & Soda is based in Amsterdam, not the UK…
MORE FASHION ADVICE
I frequently get letters from people asking for advice on how to start their own fashion brand, and I’m often surprised at how few skills or experience they have going into it. Starting a fashion business is not just a fun project to do on the side, it requires commitment and these ten very important things.
1. Industry experience. Whether you’ve worked in design, manufacturing, PR, modelling, pattern making, or sales – you really need some basic fashion industry experience to start a brand. Would I decide to open a car repair if I knew nothing about how cars are repaired? No. So don’t do the same with fashion.
All images from very cool and new (ish) designer Alexis Barrell (www.alexisbarrell.com)
2. A good idea. The hallmark of all great fashion brands. And remember, just because your friends think it is a good idea, doesn’t mean it is.
MORE ON THE THINGS YOU NEED TO START A FASHION BRAND
If you judge a book by its cover, then this one screams “tacky.”
Here’s a little gem I found online that was published in 2009: American Fashion Cookbook, a book of recipes and illustrations from American fashion designers. It’s ironic that I’m always complaining about how annoying it is that everyone “says” they are a fashion designer, because now the fashion designers are saying they are cooks. Ok, not quite, but really, is this book necessary? When I need a recipe, I go to a website or a book that is written by expert cooks, the same way I want to buy my clothes designed by expert designers. Why would I want Isaac Mizrahi’s Mushroom Truffle Spaghetti or Carolina Herrera’s Pommes Toupinel? I’d rather get the recipe from a chef whose profession is making these things.
Richard Lambertson’s crab cakes. Somehow I doubt the final result will look anything like the illustration…
And this comment (which was part of a 5 star review?!?!) sums it up: “My only two gripes are that the recipes are a bit unexact and hard to follow, and there aren’t any pictures.” Um, isn’t the WHOLE POINT of a recipe book to have instructions that are exact and easy to follow? And how often have you made a recipe without a photo? Me? Never. This book sounds like an absolute waste of $35. Designers, your profession is making dresses and not chowder, leave the cooking to the pros.
Summer and working from home all the time has made me appreciate the benefits of a good t-shirt. While I was snooping around some of the online stores for some new tops, I kept coming across these incredibly tacky slogan t-shirts. I can understand if these were being worn by twelve years olds, but something (the prices, for example) tells me that these are being marketed for adults. Can someone help me out here? I cannot understand why anyone would want to wear one of these, unless they were at the gym (and even then, I would not wear one of these to the gym because I’d look like a twat.)
Left: “Tout va bien” t-shirt by J Crew. Since when did they become a French brand? And according to reports, things are not going “bien” over there right now and sales are dipping. Right: “Let it be!” t-shirt by Happiness. Beatles lyrics are annoying no end – but made even worse when you add an exclamation point at the end.
MORE TERRIBLE TEES