Haider Ackermann Fall Winter 2012

Reviewing the Haider Ackermann show after the Lanvin show just further sinks me into a depression of “I want… I can’t afford… I couldn’t even buy in Vancouver if I could afford…” While Ackermann usually does wonderful things with evening wear, this season it is all about the tailoring, killer cuts in tones of orange, yellow, and a gorgeous royal blue. All to die for.

I love…

Paris fashion week, fashion shows, catwalk, fall winter 2012, Haider Ackermann

the pleated raglan sleeve and the waspie belt.

Paris fashion week, fashion shows, catwalk, fall winter 2012, Haider Ackermann

the perfect way too add volume in satin.

Paris fashion week, fashion shows, catwalk, fall winter 2012, Haider Ackermann

a silhouette with sharp angles.

Paris fashion week, fashion shows, catwalk, fall winter 2012, Haider Ackermann

that orange and yellow can look good together.

Paris fashion week, fashion shows, catwalk, fall winter 2012, Haider Ackermann

when your tailoring makes you look dangerously slick.

Paris fashion week, fashion shows, catwalk, fall winter 2012, Haider Ackermann

an amazing blue suit.

All images from Vogue.com.

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  • http://twitter.com/Ines_Cruz Inés Cruz

    I have to confess I didn’t know much about this designer, but those are some killer jackets and pants! I’ll keep an eye on him from now on

    http://www.chezagnes.blogspot.com

  • Rudolf Seabra

    Seeing Ackermann’s collection just makes me bemused by the fact the PPR fails to notice he would be perfect for YSL. Colour sense = best in current fashion. In fact, I’d say he has the best colour sense ever since YSL himself (I might be wrong, but no one else comes to mind). Technical skills = please. Innovative = u-huh. Unique = without a doubt. Also, he manages to explore many themes (Masculine, slightly oriental – a saharienne style collection not long ago which was marvellous, utilitarian, ultra-slick tailoring, you name it) without ever failing to have a very personal, original result. What was the reason for Slimane again? Apparently derivative post-modernism beats a real creativity nowadays. Shame.

  • Anonymous

    For some reason, Ackermann is not in the running for any top jobs, which makes me feel like I don’t understand this industry, because (as you point out) he is an excellent candidate. There must be politics behind it, which may also explain why Giambattista Valli hasn’t been in the running for the Dior job. He is PERFECT. So I don’t get it. Everything you mention about Ackermann is spot on, perhaps he is simply in the running to take over from Lagerfeld when he retires. That, I can accept.
    Alexandra Suhner Isenberg
    http://www.searchingforstyle.com

  • Jasper

    do you know who is a even better candidate for ysl? stefano pilati. i’d like to know the real reasons behind his “departure”!

  • Rudolf Seabra

    Funny enough, I have always thought a great choice for Chanel would be Jil Sander, for she has basically made a house on the Chanel aesthetic values in a contemporary form. It is difficult to see because lookwise it is very different, but if you think about it in the form of ideas, it’s all there. Practicality, technical innovations, superb quality, a borrowing of menswear, “clothes for real life”, modernity. I’d just love to see the result.