Fashion Quote: Inez and Vinoodh

Inez and Vinoodh, fashion photography, fashion quote, fashion magazines

Raquel Zimmerman shot by Inez and Vinoodh.

This is a really interesting quote from photographers Inez Van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, who were interviewed recently for Business of Fashion.

“Editorially, there used to be so much freedom that nobody would ask you to shoot a big advertiser for a story. We would, as a joke, put an outfit from Chanel in an editorial, but that was very tongue-in-cheek. Now, basically all the editorial pages are infused by the advertisers.”

This really highlights the sad state of affairs that the magazine and publishing industry has become. Not only does this result in dull magazine editorials (and wow, we see enough of those) but it also makes it more and more difficult for smaller brands to break through. Usually, 90% of a magazine’s content is advertiser’s product, and a very small percentage of brands can actually afford to advertise in magazines. That means the remaining brands have to fight to be in 10% of content, which means magazine content is usually predictable, small brands have even a tougher time getting exposure, and photo teams’ creativity is stifled because of brand obligations.

One great thing about the internet is that brands who are less known do get a chance for exposure, because there are great bloggers and websites who feature smaller brands. Now, if only there were more Susie Bubbles, who does an amazing job at profiling new and upcoming brands, and less BryanBoys, who seems to be on the payroll of Hugo Boss becasue that is all he ever talks about these days.

Image source.

  • Jasper

    so they used chanel in photoshoots before they were obligated to.. ? .. woow
    i get the picture though. but it can’t be all that stifling. i would imagine it be quite directive actually, and i dont’t know about you, but i like seeing designer clothes in my editorials. i think creativity/free photoshoots depend on which magazine too. like, i’m a big fan of just about anything alasdair mclellan does, and i can distinctly/clearly tell when he is given artistic freedom and when not, and it has much to do with the magazine/client. so my point is, although it might be more interesting if the advertisers has less power, especially for boring magazines like vogue/elle, it is really not that stifling or boring since 1) there are plenty “alternative” magazines 2) there’s new collections every season so it’s not like we are seeing the exact same clothes on repeat

    alssooo I realize you are focussing more on exposure than inez&vinoodh quote itself, so pardon me

  • alexandrasuhnerisenberg

    Yes, points taken, but the problem is that the “major” magazines get more readership, and it means that smaller, less known brands don’t stand a chance to get viewed by their large, mainstream audiences, becasue the mags are too busy featuring the big brands. I won’t deny that the big brands do amazing things, but magazines should not be forced to feature so many of them.

  • Cheryl

    Now we know why Anna doesn’t feature Alaia in Vogue.

  • Crena

    So true magazines are so boring these days, also photographers have to fund the shoot so with out a budget it’s not easy to come up with any thing amazing. But with out the advertizers there would have been no magazines in the first place . What is the answer is good photography over?

  • alexandrasuhnerisenberg

    Good point about the advertisers, but it would just be nice if they didn’t FORCE the magazines to cover them so much.