10 Shows I Loved From Fall 2015

Here are my ten favourite shows from the Fall 2015 catwalks. My least favourite are to follow next week…

fall 2015, catwalk shows, fashion critic, runway review, new york, paris, milan, london, runway, jason wu
Jason Wu
By no means do I like the concept of ladies who lunch nor do I feel like we need to encourage this activity (not the in the American society girl sense) but I always loved Jason Wu for being the “young” designer who was modernizing the ladies who lunch. However, I felt that in recent seasons he lost his flair and tried to be too fashion. That has since been recitifed, and it seems like he is back on track and making fancy, chic clothing for classic women who have a lot of money. And there’s nothing wrong with that.

fall 2015, catwalk shows, fashion critic, runway review, new york, paris, milan, london, runway, emilia wickstead
Emilia Wickstead
There is rarely a young designer out of Longon whom I feel has potential to be a commercial success. Emilia Wickstead is an exception, her chic, contemporary collections make me want to get dressed up and go our somewhere fancy (but probably not lunch.)

fall 2015, catwalk shows, fashion critic, runway review, new york, paris, milan, london, runway, antonio berardi
Antonio Berardi
I really don’t know why I haven’t paid more attention to Antonio Berardi in recent years, because the fact is, he makes beautiful clothing. This show is a great example.

fall 2015, catwalk shows, fashion critic, runway review, new york, paris, milan, london, runway, salvatore ferragamo
Salvatore Ferragamo
Some brands have the boring job of making very classic clothing, but Ferragamo did it in a way that looks interesting. This is a very classic show, but they’ve injected some interesting design concepts and they have gone a long way.

fall 2015, catwalk shows, fashion critic, runway review, new york, paris, milan, london, runway, prada
Prada
It is really nice when Prada is just Prada and it looks really amazing.

fall 2015, catwalk shows, fashion critic, runway review, new york, paris, milan, london, runway, fendi
Fendi
Why is Fendi always so good, and Chanel is always not very good? Chanel hasn’t always been not very good but it boggles the mind that Karl Lagerfeld comes up with these amazing parkas on drugs and the best coat collection of the season, and then disappoints when he gets his turn in Paris at Chanel. Maybe he should work on Chanel first, and then perhaps I’d be more impressed. Meanwhile at Fendi, the coats looks freaking fabulous and so did all the fur.

fall 2015, catwalk shows, fashion critic, runway review, new york, paris, milan, london, runway, maxmara
Maxmara
Maxmara was by no means exciting or inventive, but it stood out because many of the pieces made me think “Ooh, I’d wear that.” If you are looking for beautiful coats, cozy chic knits, and warm dresses, then look no further. Unless you don’t have thousands to spend on your fall wardrobe. In which case, look further.

fall 2015, catwalk shows, fashion critic, runway review, new york, paris, milan, london, runway, valentino
Valentino
Since Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli took over, there’s hardly been a bad thing to say about Valentino. The collections are amazing: the right blend of simple, clean line dresses that Valentino did so, SO well, and the heavily embellished numbers that make it stand out as a luxury brand. And of course there was the Zoolander thing, which was kinda fun.

fall 2015, catwalk shows, fashion critic, runway review, new york, paris, milan, london, runway, givenchy
Givenchy
Givenchy has turned into a staple of awesomeness. Riccardo Tisci seems to go quielty about his business of making unbelievably beautiful and interesting clothing, without kicking up a fuss like the rest.

fall 2015, catwalk shows, fashion critic, runway review, new york, paris, milan, london, runway, maison margiela
Maison Margiela
The reason why this is on this list is because I am so happy that John Galliano is doing cool stuff. Regardless of what he has said and done, he is a fanstastic designer, and while this show isn’t going to win most outstanding collection of all time award, it is certainly proof that he is making a comeback and for that, I am thrilled. This is a great match.

  • R.S.

    IMHO the reason why Lagerfeld does so poorly at Chanel is the pressure he’s under to make full use of the ateliers. That means there’s way too many looks, and they are usually overwrought because you have tons of specialists who need something to do to keep employed. If you scale back the shows and take them apart piece by piece, there’s actually a lot of lovely innovation and ideas. And of course once in a while they throw in a horrid gimmick which ends up overshadowing all the subtler and more refined looks.

  • R.S.

    P.S. It’s not Martin Margiela, but Maison Margiela now. I think they’re communicating that the spirit of the brand has grown to encompass much more than the vision of Martin himself. I still think all this rebranding going on in fashion is needless and silly.

  • alexandrasuhnerisenberg

    Thanks! Correction made.

  • alexandrasuhnerisenberg

    Yes, I agree that the garments aren’t so bad when dissected but the point is to make the show look good, too. And interesting point re” the ateliers.