I wouldn’t normally report on Dunhill, but in many ways, it is sort of a brand to follow, since Kim Jones became the Creative Director. I went to university with Kim, he was in the year above us, and he wasn’t very liked by many of the other MA students at Saint Martins. But I liked him, he was interesting, and although he wasn’t inccredibly talented, he was a genius at selling himself. He was also very good at delegating, before he was doing anything major, he already had three interns doing research and running errands for him, which is probably why he was able to achieve so much in the past few years. He got appointed Creative Director at Dunhill quite recently, and he has stopped designing his own collection. Dunhill is a tough one, it is so classic, it probably doesn’t actually make much money from the clothing, and the Dunhill people probably don’t care. But I am quite confused about what Kim is doing for them. He was more of a sportswear designer, and i thought he was going to bring an edge to Dunhill. But he isn’t, he has just taken very boring classic clothing, and styled it. Either he lost his spark when he went to Dunhill, or the Dunhill Powers-that-be are not letting him get creative.
I Adore…
this classic coat. Great shape, great colour, and made effortless by rolling up the sleeve.
this casual look, which is the only way that trousers tucked into hiking boots is going to look good.
I Loathe…
that this guy looks super-ultra classic (that is REALLY classic) but the trousers tucked into the boots look like a wardrobe malfunction, not a cool way of styling the outfit.
trousers tucked into socks, and more cinched waists. (Is the cinched waist inevitable for next winter? So many designers are belting their coats so tight, it looks like it is going to be "all about the waist" for next season.)
contrived styling at its worst. The colour contrasts are amazing, but with the best, bag, socks, and hiking boots, it is just not happening.
this poor re-invention of the Barbour coat. Leave that to Barbour.
All images from GQ.com.
