I missed many designers during my catwalk coverage, it was impossible to cover them all. There are a few noteworthy ones I’d like to mention over the next few weeks, but one that was (shamefully) accidentally forgotten was Viktor & Rolf. I definitely saw their collection, but for some reason forgot to write about it.
On the other hand, Viktor & Rolf is not the type of brand whose shows can always be covered by a few images. Their catwalk productions, particularly this one, are best appreciated by video.
I didn’t truly appreciate the Viktor & Rolf brand until I saw an exhibition of theirs at the Barbican in London. I love the way they work on one concept for each collection. Here are a couple of images from their previous collection. The book, The House of Viktor & Rolf, is a great guidebook of some of their most fantastic collections.
Autumn Winter 2001 The "Black Hole" collection. Here's a description of the collection, according to Viktor & Rolf: "The all-black collection was presented by models whose faces, hands and legs were painted black. Each of the sets was given a specifically strong silhouette with sharp outlines. Since there are no strong contrasts within a silhouette, it appears as if it is a cut-out. What does become visible are the different textures and patterns of the materials. The seemingly flat appearance thus obtains a certain depth, but a depth without ground. This collection is a response to a feeling of loss and depression we felt at the time. We wanted to find ways of making empty shapes visible, taking the black hole as our lead."
Fall Winter 2005
Fall Winter 2005
Fall Winter 2005, the "Bedtime Story" show. This was inspired by bedclothes, and included a single red rose and the words "I Love You" as central motifs. Tori Amos performed at this show.
Spring Summer 2006
Spring Summer 2006 The "Upside Down" collection. Each piece could be worn bottom up or bottom down.
Fall Winter 2007 "The Fashion Show" collection. The models had lighting rigs strapped on to them. This got a lot of negative press because of the potential danger to the models carrying the heavy equipment on their backs.
Fall Winter 2008
Fall Winter 2008
Fall Winter 2008 The "No" collection. Viktor & Rolf explain "We love fashion, but it's going so fast. We wanted to say 'No' this season." "
Spring Summer 2010
Spring Summer 2010
Spring Summer 2010. Viktor & Rolf explain "With the credit crunch and everybody cutting back, we decided to cut tulle ball gowns,"
Their fall winter 2010 collection had some very beautiful pieces, but I think its important to see a short clip of the show first, to understand just how genius the shapes are. Kristen McMenamy was the main model for the collection, and she came out onto the catwalk wearing the entire collection. Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren then proceeded to peel off her layers and put them onto other models, wearing bodysuits and baseball caps.
Here’s a great video of the collection. It is amazing how they manage to design those items of clothing so they work layered one on top of the other, and as individual garments as well.
I Love…
not knowing what to wear, so deciding to wear it all.
this relaxed looks. Expensive fur doesn't need to look stuffy.
the fur vest over the satin tailored jacket.
Viktor & Rolf, for being the only fashion brand that can get away with this crazy ass shit.
(In case you are wondering, although they sell clothing, they make most of their money from perfumes.)
Images from Style.com.
