The New Look

Louis Vuitton Fall Winter 2010: full skirts and nipped in waists.

I am sensing that for the first time in many years, there are going to be some big changes taking place in the fashion industry. After years of debating on the size zero issue, it seems that designers are finally starting to make changes, not just for their image, but for their customer. There’s been complaints about the size of models for some time, I’ve covered it in my blog a few times, and it’s a topic of great debate in the media. Just as the issue was beginning to dominate the fashion press, the Fall Winter 2010 shows took place, and suddenly some of the top catwalks featured models that were almost normal. (I say almost normal, although these girls are size 4′s which is far from a normal size, but much more achievable than a size 0.)

Calvin Klein‘s Francisco Costa also addressed the issue, by announcing they will be using less size 0 models, and more size 2′s and 4′s. Here’s a an interesting quote by him, from The Cut:

“We do what we feel is right for the brand. And I just feel that my customer is a real woman. She’s not 14 years old, she’s not 16 years old, so what I’m trying to do is cast models who are a little bit closer to my reality, a person who goes to my store. The reaction is really to emphasize the customer, the need for the clothes to have that immediate sort of emotion to those who would buy it.”

Prada Fall Winter 2010: curvaceous women.

I remember when I had my lingerie company, and we were developing swimwear, the buyers told us to shoot our pieces on curvy women. Not only do they look better in swimwear (you don’t see many hips protruding on the Victoria’s Secret girls, do you?) but the product also sold better when it was represented on someone who the customers could relate to. Why isn’t it the same with fashion? I have to admit, that some of the brands I really like would not look the same if they used curvy women in their campaigns, but most brands wouldn’t be doing themselves damage if they chose girls with a bit of flesh on their bones. And I think the main issue driving this change (aside from the media coverage it gets) is the fact that the new fashion trends look better on a curvy figure.

I’ve featured some images from Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs, and Prada Fall Winter 2010 in this post, and they have all shown curvier silhouettes, with an emphasis of the waist. The models are also remarkably curvier, and more womanly. When I was reflecting on the Fall Winter shows, the word “matronly” or “school teacher” kept coming to mind, and I really think that some of the above and below looks fit this description.

Marc Jacobs Fall Winter 2010: sensible hemlines and footwear.

The body-conscious trend (think Herve Leger bandage dresses) or the cocoon, over sized trend (think Acne tees) weren’t as likely to be picked up by a curvy figure, but the Fall Winter catwalks featured clothing that looks good on a woman with a bust and butt. With regards to the industry, the most important thing is whether this will increase sales, and that is why I am particularly interested in what Costa said. He is addressing the business benefits of this shift, and that’s what everyone wants to hear: it will make your customers happier, and they will buy more.

“I don’t think we can ignore anyone,” he said. “We are in the business to sell clothes and we are going to cater to everyone who likes the appeal of our clothes.” But Costa thinks it’s time to step away from the waif image Calvin Klein started when he cast Kate Moss in CK Jeans ads. “[The waif look] is just historically what Calvin did. And we’re just in different times and we don’t want to change what was done; what was done was perfect. Calvin is genius. I just want to bring a little bit of newness to today.” (Also from The Cut.)

If anything, its exciting that there’s change, and I can pull out all my old 60′s clothes.