I met Shelley over a dinner at Market a few weeks ago, where a friend Jill got together a group of likeminded people for delicious food and some fun conversation. Shelley has her own jewelry line, a beautiful collection under the name Hilliard Design. I first noticed one of her rings on Jill, a gorgeous chunky piece with a black stone. I asked her where she got them made, and she started to tell the most terrifying production horror story I have ever heard in my life.
This post should also act as a Fashion 101, as it is a lesson for all of you out there wishing to start your own collection. I’ve always said that it is very hard to design a full clothing collection without any design experience, in fact, I’ve witnessed this first hand on many occasions, particularly with an ex consultancy client of mine who thought that they could be up in the ranks with Marios Schwab and Richard Nicoll without every having had any training or experience in fashion. But I do feel that more focused projects can work, and I’ve heard a lot of success stories from people who have a vision for a product, and try and make it become a reality. Nixxi’s t-shirts are a great example of a successful yet focused collection by someone without any formal training in the area. Same with Hilliard Designs.
Of course when you don’t have the know-how, you tend to have to learn on the job. And what is the best way to learn? Through your own mistakes. I had to share Shelley’s production stories with you, so you can all get a taste for how things can go wrong. But despite this, she has still managed to produce several seasons of stunning collections, and she is still in business. As far as I am concerned, production is the most difficult and important aspect of a fashion business. If you can’t get something made at the right price, by a reliable factory and to your standards, you have no business.
So meet Shelley Hilliard, her beautiful jewelry, and her story of Bali, jail, rabid dogs, and other production nightmares.
Here’s the deal with the Fashion Chat interviews: they are done on Skype or Gmail using the chat function. I do edit them down a bit, but try and keep the general flow of the conversation. And I definitely sort out the spelling mistakes, since I am guilty of very bad writing when I’m chatting and typing very quickly.
Alexandra Suhner Isenberg: Before we get started, why don’t you tell us about why you decided to start a jewelry line?
Shelley Hilliard: Truthfully, it was so accidental. The short version is I started it because I had so many compliments on a few pieces of jewelry I designed and had made for myself. I was tired of telling people they couldn’t buy it and seeing that sad little face of “Oh really, it’s a one off? ” so I decided I would make jewelry so anyone could have what I had, if they so chose.
The puzzle ring.
ASI: So once you decided to do a proper collection, how did you go about getting production and a manufacturer in place?
SH: Ha ha ha! Well, I did it with no real research or thought. I had a “so-called friend” who had decided to branch into the jewelry market and open a factory in Bali. I decided I would fly down there and start a line of jewelry, simple as that. I had no money, just a bikini and a sketch book and that was the beginning of a very long journey.
ASI: So what happened when you arrived in Bali?
SH: It was all so overwhelming yet so secretive too! Honestly, I put it all in this so-called friend’s hands. He took the first round of sketches and said he would start with no money down and do the sampling. A year later I still had nothing so I put more pressure on and he flew out to show me my samples. Only a few had been done and they were so very, very wrong. So I re-sketched everything and sent them back with a large deposit to produce this line. Not knowing how it all worked at the time cost me thousands, but it was a lesson well learned. So eventually I saw some great samples and they were gorgeous and of the quality I wanted to put my name on. It took over two years for the first collection to come together.
The spike bracelet.
ASI: That reminds me of our conversation over dinner at Market a few weeks ago, how it is usually people with no fashion experience that start up their own companies, because they have no idea what is in store for them! The ignorance is bliss, until reality sets in.
SH: Or your bank statement comes in! But it is so true if I knew what I know now I would have probably never started this, so I am so happy to say I can be very naïve.
ASI: Naivety is a good thing sometimes!
SH: Unless you are sitting in a Bali prison just after you have launched your new collection, waiting to speak with your so-called friend who has been arrested for corruption and is being threatened by mafia! All my masters, molds and diamonds were in the hands of his staff and I didn’t know if I was going to have a line to produce!
The glory bracelet.
ASI: Ok, so how about elaborating on that. When and why did your so-called friend go to prison?
SH: As he is still in prison at this time I can’t fully say because he has not accepted his charges and further ones may be pressed, but there was involvement of investments and money or profits not paid back appropriately, etc… All I was lead to believe was his innocence so I canceled my Christmas two years ago to fly to Bali and help him. I ensured that the factory wouldn’t close down so I could have a line to sell and reproduce. I re-budgeted the wages of the factory staff, designed cut backs, scheduled changes, hosted a party to boost moral and designed new pieces to give them money to help pay their bills. Actually, that is how the spike bracelet came about. So something good came from it but I spent everyday running from my place to the office to the prison, dealing with prison security guards, sweet talking my way into having longer visits and trying to get him food, medicine, etc… not to mention dealing with lawyers too. It was exhausting!
ASI: Production nightmare! So are you still working with his factory?
SH: No I’m not, which saddened me because it was a gorgeous factory and the staff were incredible and it was important to me that anyone producing my line was paid well and had a very healthy and comfortable work environment which they did. I have continued to strive for that with my new factory (this is my third one!) I went back last January to give it another go, despite the recession being so hard on everyone. Actually, the recession pushed me harder to create a line more accessible to everyone.
The spike bubble ring.
ASI: Wow, what a crazy story! Can you tell us about how you sold your collection? I remember something about a sales trip across Canada…
SH: With the first collection complete, I decided to get in my car and drive across Canada and knock on every store door I could. I drove Vancouver to Toronto in about 4 days. I have an 89′ Honda Accord that I again naively thought could take me all the way to Quebec and back. Not so much. I would drive 22 hour days and pull over, wedge my little car between big rigs and having a short nap. Then I’d pop into the gas station bathroom and bathe myself in the sink and pull out my stilettos and dress from the trunk. I’d fluff my hair and accessorize then drop off my catalogue into a shop and hopefully set up a meeting. If I don’t smell or see orange anti- bacterial soap for the rest of my life I will be very happy. The car did break down on the way back in the middle of nowhere, or shall we say 45 minutes outside of Sudbury. Have you ever spent 4 days in Sudbury? I don’t put it on the top of my travel list.
ASI: So now are things more settled for you?
SH: No everyday is an adventure. I thought after making this last collection that has just launched this month online and in a few select stores, things would be very calm. When I was back in Bali, I was attacked by rabid dogs while looking for a backup factory. I then discovered I had no travel insurance (while at the hospital) due to a mistake with the insurance company. Then, 2 days before leaving I was in a motorcycle accident giving quite a blow to my knee and face. I had to quality-control my samples with one eye because the other one was swollen. The security guard from my hotel bandaged me up because I had no insurance and only two days left on my trip. After arriving home and ready to launch this new collection, I was delayed again as the factory didn’t want to produce my line due to the standards I had for production and quality. So I have just found another factory and we are moving forward and I am very excited about them, but I don’t ever sit back and let myself feel settled because that is when you will be caught off guard. In the past 5 years, from starting this idea to making it a reality, I know to be ready for anything that might come my way.
The future bracelet.
ASI: I can’t believe you kept going after the rapid dog incident and the motorcycle accident! Ok, so two last questions. First of all, what would you say to aspiring designers wanting to start their own collection?
SH: I would say be realistic and most importantly be ready to meet demand. Self-financing isn’t the best but if it is the only way, do it! Work a million part time jobs while you grow your brand but stick to it. Nothing happens over night but getting out there and networking is huge too! You never know whom you will meet but there is always a lucky break out there!
ASI: Great! OK, last thing. Tell us a little about the collection that just came out. It looks gorgeous.
SH: Thank you! I decided to expand only on two of the existing collections, Geometric and Mantra. I am using brass as the base for all the items with accents of sterling silver such as the spike, ball and square bracelets. I have lined all the items with sterling silver to protect the skin from tarnishing and discoloration as you get from most pieces. The Geometric collection is very much about being bold and powerful using very clean lines and oversized pieces. Mantra is more about having that extra push or reminder you need to get you through the day, encourage you to achieve greatness in a very stylish but not totally in-your-face way. I did a lot of bracelets this season because one, I love them, and two, it is great for layering them with all different types of bangles or a watch. (The Jelly ToyWatch is my favorite right now and doesn’t scratch your jewelry). The rings are so bold in themselves I find they look good just on their own, one ring, or two rings but never on the same hand worn with simple earrings. The Spike studs are my fav!
ASI: Thank you so much for taking the time to do this. Your stories will be a lesson for us all!
Hillaird Design jewelry can be bought online or check the website for a stockist list.
