I didn’t like Alexander McQueen when I first heard of him. I remember when he was hired as head designer at Givenchy, in 1996. Here was a sacred brand, THE brand responsible for the Audrey Hepburn’s dresses in Breakfast at Tiffany’s, to be taken over by a brash Englishman. Then he goes and makes matters worse, by calling Givenchy “irrelevant.” I was outraged, and decided I didn’t like Alexander McQueen.

Audrey Hepburn wearing Givenchy in Breakfast at Tiffany's.

I felt similarly about John Galliano, although he is not really English, I hated this new school of young designers who were taking over the traditional Paris brands.

Naomi Campbell in Spring Summer 1997 Givenchy Haute Couture, Alexander McQueen's first collection for the brnad.

But Alexander McQueen (and John Galliano) eventually grew up and I believe it was around January 2007, when Dior presented their Spring Summer 2007 Haute Couture collection, that I realized this. I also noticed that Alexander McQueen had gone from being the “the enfant terrible of the fashion world” to being an influential, widely respected designer.

This Christian Dior Spring Summer 2007 Haute Couture collection made me start to love John Galliano.

My opinion of McQueen’s work changed in the past few years, rather than seeing it as “shock tactics”, I began to truly appreciate his talent. And I would say that the Spring Summer 2010 show was the pinnacle for Alexander McQueen, when he had finally reached the point where he could truly be described as a fashion genius.

Alexander McQueen's Spring Summer 2010 collection entitled Plato's Atlantis.

And how ironic that his suicide followed that stunning Plato’s Atlantis collection.

I was devastated to hear of his death, not only because the fashion industry lost one of its finest talents, but also the realization that being at the top of your game, and revered in your industry, does not in the least way guarantee any sort of happiness. I had just finished writing a post about some of the “real” fashion victims, the people who dedicate their lives to the industry, at the expense of their personal lives. I had just spent some time reflecting on how happy I was that I had made the decision to “choose life.”

I won’t go on too much more about his life or his death, as many journalists have done a great job.  Here are some good articles, from On the Runway, The Times, WWD, The New York Times, BBC, The Guardian, and The Cut. BBC annoyed the hell out of me by writing an article which featured quotes about McQueen by Victoria Beckham and Tyra Banks in the introduction (which I also found very insulting.) I also understand why PPR and Gucci Group have decided to keep the Alexander McQueen label alive. Business is business, and there was a lot invested in that brand. I personally prefer that the brand gets a chance to survive, as it would be very sad to see it shut down. There must be someone out there who can take the reigns as creative director. (And that’s not Gareth Pugh.)

Lee Alexander McQueen (1969 – 2010)

The Alexander McQueen Fall Winter 2010 show was apparently 80% his own work, which is why, I’m guessing, it was so small. I’m not going to do a Love and Loathe on the looks, the whole thing was beautiful. We don’t know if he knew this was going to be the last collection he designed, but if he did, it was a fitting farewell. I think Cathy Horyn summed it up very well in saying

“Someday there will be a retrospective of the fashion of Alexander McQueen, and if it ends with the 15 pieces shown here in a small salon the survey will indeed feel complete.”

The entire show photos are below, courtesy of WWD.

R.I.P. Lee Alexander McQueen

Other image credits:

Alexander McQueen at Givenchy
Breakfast at Tiffanys
Lee Alexander McQueen
Christian Dior’s Haute Couture Spring Summer 2007
Alexander McQueen Spring Summer 2010

I’ll never forget the Spring Summer 1997 Comme des Garçons collection when Rei Kawakubo re-created the human silhouette, by adding padding and shaping to distort the female figure. It was very interesting, and it appears there are versions of this in the new collection. Is it genius? Yes. Do I love it? Not really. Its great as exhibition pieces, but who buys it? My friend has a store that stocks Comme des Garçons, and he often says it is close to impossible to move some of the stock, and the company very strict rules on discounting, so some stockists end up with warehouses of unsold Comme des Garçons goods. There is no doubt in my mind that Rei Kawakubo is a genius and accomplished creative, just look at Dover Street Market, but sometimes I wonder if they make very much money from their clothes.

I Love…

this dress. At least there is some semblance of a female figure, and with the puffy skirt, you can look very strange, but not totally deformed.

I Loathe…

outfits that only Björk can get away with. Let see Tavi try and wear this one.

anything that makes the neck disappear.

giant larvae sewn into your jacket.

a top that merges your stomach and breasts into some sort of puffed belly.

wearing brains instead of clothing.

All images from Style.com.

Alexander McQueen's legendary Plato's Atlantis Spring Summer 2010 show live streamed on Show Studio.

This very interesting post by the Sartorialist last week got me thinking about the future of fashion shows. He says that fashion shows are changing so much because nearly all of them are live streamed, and asks “Don’t you think it’s only a matter of time before these shows are open to the public? …I mean, let’s think about it, designers always say that one of their biggest expenses are fashion shows. It’s always one of the first things to get cut when times are hard. But, if they had the ability to sell tickets to these shows, it would actually become a profit maker instead of a necessary loss.”

The concept of paying for a fashion show in Europe is unheard of. Many people ask me how much it costs to get into a Chanel show, and I then have to explain that no one pays to get into a Chanel show, its free for the very limited list of people that are worthy of attending.

I don’t like the idea of paying for a fashion show, whether it is a designer fashion show in Paris, or a local fashion show. Actually, I wouldn’t pay for a fashion show, as attending fashion shows is work for me, and I don’t pay to go to work. And I certainly don’t like the idea of the general public being allowed to pay their way in to a fashion show, it would completely ruin the notion of exclusivity that the fashion industry has cultivated and is desperately trying to hold on to.

Pointless celebrities in the front row of a fashion show.

In the CNN documentary about her, Carine Roitfeld talks about how unusual it is that everyone wants to know about the fashion industry now, and that ten years ago, it wasn’t like this. She is right, when I started, the fashion industry was not full of celebrities, and therefore there weren’t millions of people who followed it closely, movies dedicated to the going ons of the industry, front rows full of pathetic reality TV stars, and thousands of fashion students trying to get into the industry. But now it is different, Anna Wintour  is a household name (how many of you can name a fashion editor from the 90s?) and the fashion industry is out in the public domain.

I know that fashion shows are very expensive, and it would be nice for brands to find a way to earn some money from them, but I don’t think they should do that by letting people buy tickets. At worst, they should stage two shows, one which is for industry, and then a public version afterwards (although even that sounds hideous to me, and probably not very cost effective.)

One thing that has really surprised me about Vancouver is that there are a lot of fashion shows on here, and people pay to go and see them. It is actually a business. Tomorrow night I am going to a fashion show that costs a lot of money (I’m not paying) and takes place at 10pm on a Friday night. That is like asking me to have a business meeting on a Friday night. I’d rather be with friends or family, relaxing and enjoying myself, rather than being “at work.” But I have realised that this is how things work here in Vancouver, and it is surprising.

Yves Saint Laurent's Spring Summer 1974 fashion show, with an informal catwalk, in the companies headquarters.

Image source.

For now the shows may be open to the public through a live streaming, but the invitations are still reserved for industry and celebrities (ugh.) As much as I love a big production fashion show, if the future of the shows require brands to tone them down a bit, I don’t think that would be such a bad thing. Let’s go back to the salon style shows from the 60s and 70s, intimate affairs for industry only (not celebrities please.) Its a nice idea isn’t it? But I doubt that will happen… For now the celebrities are adding to much value to the brands.

Here’s hoping that the fashion show I am going to tomorrow night, which is showcasing local ethically-friendly brands (which could go many ways…) is a fun Friday night out.

I loved the general feel of this Marc by Marc Jacobs show: little makeup, messy hair and really effortless, easy, “un-styled” outfits. There were a lot of vintage-inspired military pieces, so for those of us who would rather pay $60 for an authentic military coat from a vintage store, rather than pay $600 for the Marc by Marc Jacobs version, we can easily re-create the looks.

I Love…

this pretty little winter day dress.

great use of colour on winter knits.

a beautiful military cost, with great red trim. This one will last you many seasons.

a lovely gold evening dress, which can work for tea parties, weddings, or a night out, depending on how you style it.

I Loathe…

trousers that only look good on six foot tall , rake-thin, Swedish girls. We have had enough of that in the past few seasons, can we please move on?

bloomers as outerwear for winter.

long john onesies worn as outerwear.

This is the only long john onesie anyone should be wearing, and not as outerwear.

Images from Style.com.

Hervé Léger and Max Azria deserve each other. Hervé Léger trained with Azzedine Alaïa, then started his own brand, which was basically a copy of everything Alaïa did. Can I just clarify that Azzedine Alaïa, NOT Hervé Léger, was considered the “King of Cling” and it is Alaïa who pretty much invented the body con dress. Alaïa also did the bandage dress first! Now, the Hervé Léger brand is living off the bandage dress, probably because Max Azria is a fast fashion designer (see BCBG) not luxury. Maybe Victoria Beckham and Hervé Léger can merge into one brand, make a tight dress, and sell that one same dress every season, over and over again.

I Love…

the sleeve details on this jacket.

the fins on this skirt, the bodice seams and the sleeve. If you are going to make a tight dress over and over again, may as well do something with it.

I Loathe…

that this knit detail is signature Alaia, yet Herve Leger is still blatantly copying him on the catwalk.

the bandage dress. SO over. Can we please move on?

All images from Style.com.

Before I start this post, I just want to say that I am devastated about the death of Lee Alexander McQueen. I have decided to wait a few days to write a post about it, as I’d like to hear a bit more about the circumstances and the reactions, before I write.  I’ll post something in the next week or so. R.I.P. Lee Alexander McQueen.

It is hard now to go on and talk about fun fashion things, but I feel I am long overdue for a post about the Sonia Rykiel collections for H&M. I never wrote anything about the lingerie (I had a draft written for ages, and then it was too late,) so I definitely need to comment on that, and the knitwear coming out next week.

This body suit is pretty cool.

Not exactly a t-shirt bra, but very cute.

One of my students asked me if I was going to buy anything from the upcoming collection, and, unless I get the opportunity to do so with the least amount of effort, the answer is no. It is not because I don’t like the collection, on the contrary, it looks great but I have a lot of the real thing, so I don’t intend on buying the cheaper version.

But it looks pretty cool!

I had a look in my closet to see if I could show you all some of my fantastic Sonia Rykiel collection, and I realised that my collection consists of bags, shoes, and jewelry, I barely have any clothing at all. My Sonia Rykiel shoe collection is PHENOMENAL, with a lot of pieces that were never commercialised or that were produced in very limited quantities. My bags are mighty cool too. And the costume jewelry is fantastic. There is way too much of it to photograph tonight, so here are a few good bits.

Rhinestones, or "strass" as its called in French, are one of the key elements in all of Sonia Rykiel's collections.

My time at Sonia Rykiel was amazing, and I know I was fortunate to have worked with one of the fashion greats. She is a pretty amazing woman, and she was very invovled in all of the collections, which was rare because she was in her early seventies at the time. I can’t possibly describe the entire experience in one, or several, blog posts, but here are a few short stories that might make you smile.

My beautiful ribbon sandals.

One day Sonia took the design team to lunch at the Cafe Flore, which was across the street from the flagship store and the offices. She is known for being a bit of a swinger, and let’s just say, her love life certainly hadn’t caught up to her age. We were sitting upstairs, and a man came over to the table, which was filled with young fashion designers, good looking gays and girls, eating lunch, and right away he started chatting up Sonia. She didn’t even seem surprised. I was pretty impressed, and hope that I will still be receiving fancy pick up lines when I am 70.

These don't look like much, but the trim is real fur. And I love real fur.

If you work for Sonia Rykiel, and your name is Sonia or Nathalie, you need to adopt a new name while you are working in the company. They don’t want anyone to have the same name as the founder or her daughter. The even weirder thing was that our studio director was named Antoinette, but Sonia hated that name, so she was referred to as Louise while she worked there. Louise wasn’t her middle name or anything, it was a name assigned to her, because Sonia “liked” it.

Sonia Rykiel was not the most generous of brands when it came to giving freebies, particularly to the models. We always told the dressers to make sure that the models didn’t steal the clothing. At one show, I was helping someone dress Alek Wek, and she said she loved the shoes (I think those were the ribbon sandals shown above.) One of the senior designers said to me, “Give her the shoes! Give her the shoes!” We gave her the shoes, and what happened? A few weeks later she is photographed wearing them out, and of course they become one of the “shoes of the season.”

Yes, these ankle boots are amazing...

but even more amazing when you fold down the top and expose the pink lining. Notice the "strass" all down the side.

My favourite one-on-one Sonia Rykiel moment was when she called me in to help her tidy up the studio. I had just started there, so I felt pretty intimidated by her. Our fur supplier had dropped off some colour samples and they needed to be tidied. Now, this didn’t mean they dropped off a few bits of dyed fur, this meant we had about thirty top grade fox skins, dyed in the most beautiful colours (which, once lined with satin, sold as scarves for about $2,000 each.) She was shoving them into garage bags, and asked me to help her with it. She said they were in the way. Here I was, 20 years old, a little Vancouver girl, shoving $40,000 dollars worth of fox skins into a garbage bag with one of the most famous French fashion designers. Welcome to Paris.

My "Glam Star" strass pins.

All Sonia Rykiel for H&M images courtesy of H&M.

Sometimes I read news about the fashion industry that truly send shivers down my spine… and today was another one of these moments. I thought of waiting until later to hear if these rumors were denied, but then I thought it would give me the opportunity to discuss one of my favourite brands ever, and one of my least-favourite TV shows, which I want to feature anyway, so here I go.

Womens Wear Daily, and The Cut have both announced rumors that Sarah Jessica Parker may take on an advising role at Halston, similar to the role that Lindsey Lohan took at Ungaro. Now, considering the utter and complete failure that was the first collection by Lohan at Ungaro, wouldn’t brands hesitate about repeating this “celebrity” advisor concept? Plus, SJP at Halston???? She wears fluffy skirts, not fabulous, streamlined jersey dresses, she has big curly hair, not slicked-back buns, she wears girly, overdone shoes, not statement, strong accessories. She is so wrong for that brand.

A little background on Halston…

Roy Halston was a American designer who came to fame in the late fifties and early sixties, starting as a miliner and then becoming famous for his minimal, jersey dresses. Here are a few photos from one of my Halston books.

Halston, like Helmut Newton, are one of my first reference points for creative research when I am designing. I love his work.

He is known for dressing women like Jacqueline Kennedy, Bianca Jagger, Elizabeth Taylor, and Liza Minnelli. He was also a regular at the famous Studio 54 nightclub, and would be known to turn up with a gaggle of women looking fabulous and wearing Halston. These women were referred to as the Halstonettes, and he was one of the first designers to openly use the concept of a brand ambassador, which is now something used by many large fashion brands (Daslu, the famous luxury store in Sao Paolo uses Dasluzettes to promote their store, they are beautiful Brazilian women who go to all the good parties wearing Daslu clothing. If you want to read more about the best luxury store in Brazil, scroll down to the bottom of this article.)

Remember this famous Gucci dress by Tom Ford? Inspired by Halston. Image source.

Anyway, Halston was relaunched for the umpteenth time a few seasons ago, but this time with a “super team” behind it, that included the smarts of Tamara Mellon from Jimmy Choo, the cash from film mogul Harvey Weinstein, and the, uhhh, ideas (?) of stylist Rachel Zoe. The collection did not do very well, neither did the second one, so they got rid of Rachel and the head designer, did one collection with their in-house design team, and hired Marios Schwab to come in as the new creative director. We are all awaiting Marios’ first Halston collection, to be presented in February, with feverish anticipation…He is an Austrian-Greek St Martins graduate young designer based in London that makes pretty beautiful dresses.

Halstons first relaunched collection that didn’t do so well…

Images from Style.com

Some of Marios Schwab’s designs:

Images from Style.com.

Now, why, when you have the fashion world at the edge of their seat anticipating the first Halston by Marios Schwab collection, would you then try and throw Sarah Jessica Parker into the mix? Why? It sounds ridiculous, she isn’t very Halston, she certainly isn’t very Marios Schwab, and she is not a fashion designer of any sort.

I am going to save my Sex and the City rant for another day, since they are releasing their next movie in the summer, and I am sure I will have a lot to say about that. I personally found the series a bit predictable, the characters were annoying, and I just wasn’t a fan (sorry…I know its about fashion and Manolos, but it just didn’t do it for me.) I did enjoy some of the conversations between the four women, and I think their outfits were worth checking out, but I find SJP to be pretty irritating. But I am not wasting energy saying mean things about her, its not worth it. She looks good for her age, wears some pretty interesting clothing, and his quite respectable, so good for her. But she isn’t worthy of Halston.

How can this

work with this.

Sarah Jessica Parker images source.

It can’t. Please god let this be a rumour that doesn’t come true, for Marios’ sake (it must feel pretty crap if you just got a new job, and before you even proved yourself, they hire someone to “help you”),  for Sarah’s sake (she is bound to make a fool of herself, and you need to be really tall, thin, and angular to pull off Halston jersey dresses) and for Halston’s sake. I have every confidence that Marios can do Halston, but its gonna be a lot of work, and he needs our support. But not  Sarah Jessica’s Parker’s help. She should stick to flouncy skirts and pretty colours and curly hair…

—- UPDATE —-

The rumors are true (according to WWD), SJP is taking on an “advisory” role for Halston Heritage. This is a very bad start to the day.

—- SECOND UPDATE —-

It seems to be confirmed that SJP will be involved in the Halston Heritage collection, which is the Halston diffusion line focused on re-launching some pieces form the Halston archives. She won’t have anything to do with the line  Marios is working on, but still. It is wrong.