One of the best parts of the Marc Jacobs brand is the sense of humour. While other luxury brands tend to take themselves so seriously, Marc Jacobs operates with a bit of cheek. I mean, how many top designer brands have a dogwear collection called Bark Jacobs?

BookMarc is the new stationary collection by Marc Jacobs. I can imagine this will go down a treat with all of the high school students who are fans of Marc Jacobs. I remember one of my students telling me her and all her friends used to buy Marc by Marc Jacobs when they were in high school She was surprised to find out I hadn’t done the same (obviously not, the brand didn’t exist.) She asked me what luxury brands we used to buy as teenagers, and I had to explain that fifteen years ago, teenagers didn’t buy luxury brands, nor were they interested in them. We bought streetwear and fast fashion. Luxury school supplies would have seemed a farce in those days, but I guess nowadays, when 14 years olds aspire to buy Chanel, and Hermès has 18 year old girls as brand ambassadors, a designer pencil case seems like a great idea. And they look really fun too.

All images from the Marc Jacobs website.

I had a good, thorough flip though the September issue of US Vogue over the weekend, and I was surprised to see how boring the advertising campaigns were. Firstly, Louis Vuitton was noticeably absent, which was very strange. And the magazine was also lacking in nice-looking campaigns, which, let’s face it, is usually the main reason we buy the September issues. I know that desperate times call for desperate measures, but the second, third, and fourth quarters of the magazine were crammed with tasteless, ugly campaigns from brands that are not “worthy of Vogue.” I guess they have had to drop their standards in order to fill their pages.

Before I go through my Loves and Loathes for the ad campaigns from the brands we know, I should point out that there was a very good article in Vogue about mothers in the US Army. Not only was it a riveting read, but it made me 1-feel so sad for children whose parents are in the military, and 2-hate the US Army more than words can describe.

I Love…

how amazing Karen Elson looks in this Balenciaga campaign. And the shape of that white furry coat is INSANE.

the way this ad highlights the unusual shapes Bottega Veneta is known for.

Roberto Cavalli at his best: glamour, leopard print, and fur.

these simple Celine ads.

that these Chanel photos look pretty relaxed.

the best trousers of the season, by Chloe.

that despite the fact that Gucci has basically repeated their Spring Summer photos, it still very luxury and on-brand.

Autumn Winter with Michael Kors. Only Carmen Kass can make grey jogging pants look great with a fur coat.

alien eye makeup at Lanvin.

gorgeous contrasts and hardcore hardware at Miu Miu.

that Nicole Miller suddenly looks modern and slick.

Prada's choice of models, Miranda Kerr looks amazing.

that Tommy Hilfiger does the American preppy look better than anyone else.

this beautiful photo. This Valentino dress looks absolutely stunning.

Cleopatra hair and dramatic stairs at Yves Saint Laurent.

I loathe…

the whole concept of this Bulgari shoot, plus the style of the photography, which looks quite tacky.

a boring Burberry campaign. Time to try something new.

ditto at Dolce & Gabanna. They also need to try something new.

when Hermes looks too equestrian.

this Jimmy Choo campaign. It is such a predictable fashion photo set-up, and the shoes look like nothing special.

when a campaign gets done too many times. The cute young Lacoste models jumping up and down were nice for a few seasons, but now they look like silly ravers.

that Ralph Lauren has chosen some of his most boring product for the seasonal ad campaign.

Kate Moss naked in this David Yurman campaign. She doesn't look nice at all, in fact, she looks a bit yuck.

It kills me to do a “Loathe” post about Hermès, my favourite brand and the ultimate symbol of luxury fashion, but alas, it must be done. Their most recent project, a website called “J’aime Mon Carré,” is their first and hopefully last foray into the world of tragic “It-girls.” Basically the website invovles a bunch of “It Girls” photographed wearing limited edition Hermès scarves, with instructions on how to imitate their styles. The girls are just another group of boring twenty-somethings with pretty faces and born into rich families.

Reading the descriptions of the girls makes me want to puke. One, who looks like she is 14, likes to “drink red wine, eat croissants, and make love while listening to Edith Piaf.” I’m wondering if she is even the age of consent. Another one likes to go out in “NY, London, Paris. Not LA.” Are we supposed to care? And most of all, are Hermès customers supposed to care? If this was Forever 21, Alexander Wang, or even Burberry (who is so desperately trying to be hip), I could understand, but Hermès? No. Please NO.

Dear Hermès,

I love you, and almost everything you do. But please don’t lower ourself by turning into one of the many brands who use boring, silly “It-girl” actresses, DJ’s or socialites as representatives of your brand. You are above that. Go back to being classic, exclusive, and elite. We love you that way.

Yours truly,

Alexandra

I love Jean Paul Gaultier. He is old school, but hip. He is very 80’s, but in a modern way. He is haute couture done rock’n'roll, and that is exactly what this collection is. I remember one of my first weekends living in Paris, I went to Porte de Clignancourt to visit the famous Paris flea market with my new fashion school friends. Jean Paul Gaultier was buying some incredibly expensive, fabulous antique furniture and wearing a nautical striped sweater (SO him!) We were rudely staring at him, our first famous designer encounter, and he turned around and smiled at us. He’s the best!

I love…

a couture trenchcoat.

beautifully thin and extremely soft leather with fur trim.

rounded shoulders and hips.

an incredibly strange yet interesting dress.

awesome shoulders! I love this silhouette.

more amazing shoulders, this time jeweled and square.

I loathe…

the cone cups that look great on Madonna's bustier look crap on a boring blue top.

All images from Style.com.

Read the rest of my Haute Couture Fall 2010 reviews here.

It feels like Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli are finally starting to understand Valentino. The understated yet interesting silhouettes, the feminine ruffles on bold shapes, and the mix of 60’s gamine and elegance are what Valentino is about. They hit the mark with some of the dresses, although some were slightly exaggerated versions of Valentino that ended up looking like oversized babies’ dresses. But I’d say this collection gives me hope about these two designers’ ability to take after their fake tanned master.

I love…

Prim and proper with a touch of sass (I can't believe I said the word sass.)

navy blue evening wear. So much more interesting than black.

couture lacework.

a new interpretation of 80's Valentino.

I loathe…

this ridiculous flower.

looking like a big baby or a tacky doll.

All images from Style.com.

Read the rest of my Haute Couture Fall 2010 reviews here.

Chanel puts on the most incredible productions for their haute couture shows. This one, in the Grand Palais, featured a giant gold lion resting his paw on a pearl, which doubled as the entrance for the models. The collection was super classy, very elegant, with beautiful, structured tailoring. I loved the amazing rounded raglan sleeves, and the evening pieces, which show off the tehcniques of the ateliers and the Karl Lagerfeld’s incredible talent as a designer.

I love…

the way the top comes away from the skirt at the waist of this coat, and the beautifully rounded, narrow raglan sleeve.

that Karl has gotten rid of the hideous fake fur and brought back the real stuff!

this lovely silhouette and the perfect little gathers at the waist and on the sleeves.

more beautiful tailoring, this time slightly deconstructed.

embroidery to die for.

a dramatic evening dress worn mid calf and with slouchy boots.

the fact that this feels traditional, folksy, and space age all at the same time.

Image of the stage from here, the rest of the images from Style.com.

Read the rest of my Haute Couture Fall 2010 reviews here.

Givenchy’s Fall 2010 haute couture collection had ten stunning dresses. I have five loves, but only because I thought it would be silly to have ten loves, as that is the whole show. This is another example of what haute couture should be, incredible embellishment, stunning shapes, and the general feel of fairytale fabulousness, but with a Givenchy edge. These dresses look expensive, very expensive. They are the types of dresses you would have in your closet and take out on a Saturday afternoon just to caress and admire their beauty. My only criticism is the white dresses, they are beautiful, but look a lot like wedding dresses. I am not sure many woman will want to look like a bride, if they aren’t getting married (that day.) I hope the white ones are available in gold too.

I love…

haute couture embellishments.

the fringes and drapes on this dress.

gold! And looking like a million dollars. (Literally.)

guessing who will get the honour of wearing this on the red carpet. It must be someone fabulous.

the contrast of the zippers on an otherwise delicate dress, worn with a strong, structured jacket. Imagine this on a bride!

All images from Style.com.

Read the rest of my Haute Couture Fall 2010 reviews here.

Ok, think Dynasty, think 70’s and 80’s retro glamour, think the Gucci by Gucci ad, and think the famous Steven Meisel Fall Winter 2000 Versace campaign. That’s what the Armani Privé Fall 2010 collection looks like. The tailoring is sexy and strong, and the evening wear is very glitzy. My only complaint is that a lot of the tailoring looks very ready-to-wear, I hope the finishes and fit make the hefty price tag worth it.

I love…

fabulous 70's glamour.

more beautiful 70's tailoring. I love the draped neckline, the giant button, and the tones of brown and tan.

wearing a cocktail dress with a matching coat. And a killer crocodile clutch.

a crocodile jacket. That is haute couture.

a glittering long-sleeved gown.

Armani's take on Dynasty evening wear.

I loathe...

a bad fit. The model wearing this dress needs much higher, larger breasts.

the unflattering shape of this dress. I know couture is about creating an incredible fit with the minimum number of seams, but this just looks shapeless.

All images from Style.com.

Read the rest of my Haute Couture Fall 2010 reviews here.

Alexis Mabille’s fall 2010 couture collection fell short of what a Paris couture collection should be. There ware some beautiful pieces, but not enough of them to impress. For example, some jackets and tops were pared with slim black trousers. I don’t care how fabulous those trousers are, you don’t go to an haute couture salon for black trousers. Perhaps I am being overly critical, considering it is a young brand without the resources that the big names have, but I really believe that if you are going to call yourself couture, you had better be prepared to deliver.

I love…

this beautiful, girly lace top. But the black trousers are a couture no-no.

fabulous sleeves.

a large, soft pink bow.

I loathe…

a lace bustier and black pants. Not very haute.

a black suit that looks like it has been stolen off Viktor and Rolf's catwalk.

All images from Style.com.

Read the rest of my Haute Couture Fall 2010 reviews here.

One thing you can guarantee with a Christian Dior haute couture show is that it will be proper haute couture. Nothing in this collection feels like a four thousand dress, it all feels like forty thousand dollar dresses (and more!), and that is exactly what we want with haute couture. The theme here is flowers, done quite literally, and beautifully.

Style.com mentions Irving Penn’s photographs of flowers as an influence in this collection, and rightly so. Flowers, by Irving Penn, is one of the most beautiful photography books in the world. I used to look at it all the time in the St Martins library, and I am now longing for a copy of my own. Like most of the things I seem to want, it is expensive, so I need to think twice before I spend $100 on a book. But I am considering it.

I love…

the puffiness and lightness of this skirt. And the dégradé from black to white..

a stunning floral print and the feeling of petals on the hem of the skirt.

the way the heavy fabric drapes and pleats on this dress, and the light orange flowers creeping out from between the panels.

a beautifully literal flower dress.

the sharp black silhouette and the delicate, overflowing chiffon petals.

the beautiful red to purple dégradé on this gown. This is a proper ballgown.

I loathe…

the colour of this dress, too garish for the dramatic shape.

All images from Style.com.

Read the rest of my Haute Couture Fall 2010 reviews here.