I stumbled on this image while I was looking at some photographer agent’s websites. I love it, the sandy shades, the giant gold chain, and the strange geometric monochrome makeup. The rest of the shoot looks equally as gorgeous. It was published in the Swedish maagzine Plaza Kvinna, but I have no idea who the rest of the team was, only that the photographer is Mikael Schulz.

On that note, I’m off on a little beach trip for the Labour Day long weekend. Don’t worry, I’ve got some posts lined up for you all, but they will be pre-programmed, so if there is a major fashion emergency (unlikely, those don’t really exist), I’ll comment on Tuesday.

Images from Agent Bauer.

One of the best parts of the Marc Jacobs brand is the sense of humour. While other luxury brands tend to take themselves so seriously, Marc Jacobs operates with a bit of cheek. I mean, how many top designer brands have a dogwear collection called Bark Jacobs?

BookMarc is the new stationary collection by Marc Jacobs. I can imagine this will go down a treat with all of the high school students who are fans of Marc Jacobs. I remember one of my students telling me her and all her friends used to buy Marc by Marc Jacobs when they were in high school She was surprised to find out I hadn’t done the same (obviously not, the brand didn’t exist.) She asked me what luxury brands we used to buy as teenagers, and I had to explain that fifteen years ago, teenagers didn’t buy luxury brands, nor were they interested in them. We bought streetwear and fast fashion. Luxury school supplies would have seemed a farce in those days, but I guess nowadays, when 14 years olds aspire to buy Chanel, and Hermès has 18 year old girls as brand ambassadors, a designer pencil case seems like a great idea. And they look really fun too.

All images from the Marc Jacobs website.

Well, rumour has it that the next H&M collaboration is going to be with Lanvin. Although it is not confirmed, I was having dinner with some fashion insiders last night (Lisa Tant and Imran Amed) and they both seemed to think Lanvin was the one, although it won’t be officially announced until September 9th. H&M deserve mega-credit for their teaser videos, launched two days ago on Youtube. First of all, they are amazing to watch. Secondly, they get us thinking… who could it be? Before Lanvin, rumours were flying around about Bottega Veneta and Carolina Herrera, amongst others. I’ve posted two of the videos here, check them out. Apparently the quotes sound very “Alber Elbaz”, although I am sure it could be someone else as well.

I had a discussion with my students today about H&M’s designer collaborations, and we all seemed to agree that H&M had far more credibility than other “collaborative” fast fashion brands, because they work primarily with great fashion designers, rather than celebrities (Madonna and Kylie Minogue being the two exceptions.) The only other brand that I can think of who has managed this is Target, who have also done some great collaborations, and more recently, gained increased exposure because by selling their product through Gilt Groupe and in Colette.

A Kate Moss for Topshop dress, which does not look very "Kate Moss" and which is quite overpriced at approx. $250.

Which brings me to think, are we beginning to see the end of the celebrity collaborations? (Please God say it’s true!) Kate Moss has ended her relationship with Topshop this week, apparently on bad terms, and I am guessing it is because the clothes were never that interesting in the first place. They were being greedy rolling out 6 collections a year, and charging high prices, for something that wasn’t even properly designed by her. Luxury brands have been distancing themselves from celebrity collaborations (I hope we won’t need to see any more Kanye + Louis Vuitton crap), and I think the consumer is getting sick of it. Now that designers like Alber Elbaz and Phoebe Philo are practically household names, why do we need a celebrity to give kudos to a fashion brand, when a top designer can do the same thing?

Anyway, back to H&M. What are your thoughts? I’d love it to be Lanvin, but only if I manage to get my hands on it without having to wait in line. I was a bit scared that it might be Tomas Maier from Bottega Veneta, simply because I want the brand to remain secret (well, it is obviously not a secret, but it clearly doesn’t have much exposure) because I haven’t managed to buy anything from them yet. Until I can own some Bottega Veneta, I don’t want it going mainstream. It is sort of like the way you feel about bands when you are a teenager, you never want anyone else to know about your favourite bands, because then they are uncool. On the other hand, it is not likely I’ll become a Bottega Veneta customer anytime soon, because their clothing is VERY expensive, and is not available anywhere in Canada. Regardless of who the H&M designer is, there is no doubt it is going to be exciting!

P.S. One of the things that was brought up last night while we were gushing about the greatness of Bottega Veneta, was the fact that their collections are not at all branded. Imran explained that as a result of this, the brand was something you buy “for you.” And what a lovely way to think about a luxury brand. It is not about flashing labels and monograms, buying luxury should be always for yourself, not the people who are going to recognize the logo.

**** UPDATE ****

It has been confirmed, the collaboration with Lanvin will come out in stores on November 23rd. Here is a quote from Alber Elbaz.

“H&M approached us to collaborate, and see if we could translate the dream we created at Lanvin to a wider audience, not just a dress for less. I have said in the past that I would never do a mass-market collection, but what intrigued me was the idea of H&M going luxury rather than Lanvin going public. This has been an exceptional exercise, where two companies at opposite poles can work together because we share the same philosophy of bringing joy and beauty to men and women around the world.”

Anyway, I am trying to plan some sort of uniform, so I can just throw on something every morning and look good. This uniform will require a lot of t-shirts, usually to be worn underneath sweaters. It is so hard to find a great t-shirt, especially since Uniqlo and COS don’t have stores in Vancouver or don’t sell online (Damn you!!!!) Here are a few nice, long-sleeved tees.

Petit Bateau is the go-to for t-shirts, in fact, when I first moved to Paris, I remember Americans used to line up outside their shop to buy plain t-shirts. Personally, I don’t know what the big fuss is about, yes, their t-shirts are great, but they aren’t exactly re-inventing the wheel. But I love this Henley tee, with the little row of buttons down the front. They have some nice colours too, this shade, called Love, would make for a nice dash of colour in my otherwise black wardrobe. $78 from Petit Bateau.

I love the sleeve slits on this Gucci top, although I’d never wear it with tight leather trousers (which looks gross.) The sizes are XS, S, and M, although this looks like something you’d want to wear a bit loose, maybe an L…don’t think that is what Gucci intended though. Viscose jersey top, $750 from Gucci.

I was unfamiliar with Kain until I saw this fantastic draped jersey top on Net a Porter. This silk jersey top is a steal at $105, from Net a Porter.

Alexander Wang is the first brand that comes to mind when I think trendy designer t-shirts, so here is a great one in a lightweight, almost sheer fabric. I love that the sleeves are very long, such an easy, good-looking feature to add to a top, yet hardly anyone does it. $81 from Alexander Wang.

Imran Amed and Alexandra Suhner Isenberg during their live conversation at OPUS Bar.

The digital revolution has had an incredible impact on the fashion industry in the past few years, dramatically changing the way that brands communicate. This was the theme of the evening last night at OPUS Bar, The Business of Fashion and the Digital Revolution, with my guest of honour, Imran Amed. Most of you would have heard about how Imran’s blog, Business of Fashion, is my fashion bible, so it was an great coup to have him join us last night here in Vancouver.

Our on-stage conversation, amongst an intimate group of Vancouver’s fashion elite, touched on some of the key issues affecting the fashion industry at the moment. Imran talked about how Burberry was one of the leading luxury brands in the digital revolution, using the example of their website, the Art of the Trench, which featured user-contributed photos of people wearing their trench coats as well as pictures taken by Scott Schuman, who is best known for his street style blog The Sartorialist. We also discussed Arcade Fire’s recent video release, which allows viewers to view the music video on the street they grew up on, using technology from Google Maps. This concept of individualizing an experience for the customers is one of the great benefits of using social media.

Imran also talked the rise and impact of the bloggers, which he feels has not yet reached its peak. His suggestions for brands new to social media was to consider it part of their business strategy, and to research everything properly before jumping on to the “social media bandwagon.” The digital revolution is here to stay, and brands need to consider their long term online initiatives as important business strategies, not just something to be handed down to “the youngest member of the team.”

Thanks to everyone who made last night’s event such a success, and a special thanks to our sponsors, OPUS Bar, Vancouver College of Art and Design, and Skyy Vodka.

Lisa Tant (Flare Magazine), Jason Matlo, Jill Killeen (Killeen Communications), and Imran Amed.

Rebecca Tay (Fashion Magazine), Imran Amed, and May Globus (Sweet Spot.)

Stephen Bailey (John Fluevog) and Michael Belgue (Hobo Magazine.)

Jody Kirk (Gravity Pope) and Heather Martin (Mono Clothing.)

Leila Bani, Rebecca Tay (Fashion Magazine) and Alexandra Suhner Isenberg.

Photos by Bronte Robertson.

Before I go through my Loves and Loathes for the ad campaigns from the brands we know, I should point out that there was a very good article in Vogue about mothers in the US Army. Not only was it a riveting read, but it made me 1-feel so sad for children whose parents are in the military, and 2-hate the US Army more than words can describe.

I Love…

how amazing Karen Elson looks in this Balenciaga campaign. And the shape of that white furry coat is INSANE.

the way this ad highlights the unusual shapes Bottega Veneta is known for.

Roberto Cavalli at his best: glamour, leopard print, and fur.

these simple Celine ads.

that these Chanel photos look pretty relaxed.

the best trousers of the season, by Chloe.

that despite the fact that Gucci has basically repeated their Spring Summer photos, it still very luxury and on-brand.

Autumn Winter with Michael Kors. Only Carmen Kass can make grey jogging pants look great with a fur coat.

alien eye makeup at Lanvin.

gorgeous contrasts and hardcore hardware at Miu Miu.

that Nicole Miller suddenly looks modern and slick.

Prada's choice of models, Miranda Kerr looks amazing.

that Tommy Hilfiger does the American preppy look better than anyone else.

this beautiful photo. This Valentino dress looks absolutely stunning.

Cleopatra hair and dramatic stairs at Yves Saint Laurent.

I loathe…

the whole concept of this Bulgari shoot, plus the style of the photography, which looks quite tacky.

a boring Burberry campaign. Time to try something new.

ditto at Dolce & Gabanna. They also need to try something new.

when Hermes looks too equestrian.

this Jimmy Choo campaign. It is such a predictable fashion photo set-up, and the shoes look like nothing special.

when a campaign gets done too many times. The cute young Lacoste models jumping up and down were nice for a few seasons, but now they look like silly ravers.

that Ralph Lauren has chosen some of his most boring product for the seasonal ad campaign.

Kate Moss naked in this David Yurman campaign. She doesn't look nice at all, in fact, she looks a bit yuck.

To my Vancouver readers: Obakki and Fashion Magazine are holding a customer event tomorrow night in the Water street store, with amazing discounts. Plus you’ll get a chance to meet the amazing Rebecca Tay! All you need to do is send an email to rsvp@obakki.com. Obakki is definitely one of the best Vancouver fashion brands and everything is made right here in Vancouver. So if you want free drinks and gorgeous (discounted) clothes… drop them a line!

Isabel Marant photographed by Inez Van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin.

I have a real problem with Isabel Marant and the way she presents herself in the media. Marant has developed quite the cult following in the past few years. Her Parisian collections comprise of beautifully effortless, easy, stylish, entry-level luxury products. But I think she should keep her mouth shut, as the clothes speak for themselves, and the last thing she needs is to damage her otherwise very cool brand by blurting out her stupid “I am not Fashion” statements. She is trying way too hard to be anti-fashion, and I’m finding it irritating to the point that I’m not interested in her clothes anymore.

Isabel Marant Fall Winter 2010 Collection.

Fashionologie posted the following quotes from her:

“I’m quite anti-consumerist; It’s difficult for me being a designer in an industry I don’t like. When I design a collection I find myself thinking, ‘Why do we need new clothes?’ I never think about the fashion people . . . They are not my concern.”

Isabel, let me explain something to you. If the fashion people didn’t like your clothes, and they didn’t talk about you in the press or buy your collections, you wouldn’t have a business. So stop pretending you don’t care, because it is boring to hear about it. And if no one needed new clothes, or wanted new clothes, they you wouldn’t have a business anymore. The only reason you have money, live in a nice apartment, have a job you enjoy, and wear pretty clothes is because people buy YOUR clothes, so perhaps you’d like to acknowledge this, rather than pretend you are too “cool” to look at the facts.

“Big breasts and lips. No! I hate those girls. I hate famous women. My ideal woman is Serge Gainsbourg. Not that he was a woman.”

Isabel, not everyone is blessed with a thin frame and a small chest like the typical French woman. You “hate” people with big breasts? That’s a bit harsh, isn’t it? And you don’t like famous women? I am sure you weren’t complaining when Kate Bosworth and Rachel Bilson helped to take your brand out of Parisian obscurity onto the wish lists of the global fashionistas.

Rachel Bilson in Isabel Marant.

There is nothing I find more irritating the people who are unappreciative of the things or people who helped to make them successful. Isabel Marant recently opened a store in New York City, no thanks to the fact that the celebrities wearing her clothes gave her brand a whole new visibility, and as a result, a brand new customer base. Personally, when I need a grey sweatshirt, I’ll go to COS and get one of theirs, which will have a special cut and a really cool shape, but set me back $75, instead of the $400 Isabel Marant version.

Isabel Marant suede jeans available on Net a Porter for $1,605.

I wrote about her a few months ago and about my irritation at the fact that they made it very difficult for customers to get their hands on product. I agree that it is is great to play “hard to get” as it increases the desirability of a brand. But Marant was just silly with her “no internet” policy (which has since then changed, as she probably realized she was being completely idiotic by not offering her products online.) This article in the New York Times, by Cintra Wilson, explores the fact that the clothes seem to be very overpriced, and over hyped.  Here’s how Wilson describes her first trip into the NYC store:

“What I figured to be platonically ideal Isabel Marant customers were milling around in full force: tall, willowy blondes wearing big mod Army jackets and chunky high heels. I was wearing a boy’s plaid rodeo shirt with snap buttons (eBay, $12), a charcoal-gray Hanes zipper hoodie (Wal-Mart, $12), skinny-legged Levi’s I bought at one of those loud discount places on lower Broadway (under $40) and an old wool Army jacket (eBay, under $20). Coincidentally enough, I looked, in texture, shape and substance, more or less like I got dressed right in the store.”

Isabel Marant Fall Winter 2010 campaign: Kate Moss photographed by Inez van Lamsweerde et Vinoodh Matadin.

I’ll let you all make your own decisions, but personally, when someone insults the industry that she is part of, is thankless of the people or phenomenons that made her famous, behaves like she is too cool to care about her customers, and is downright snobby, I won’t bother throwing my dollars her way. But I don’t think she will be around for that long anyway, my guess is that she will sell her business and get out in the next few years, claiming something like “It all became to commercial for me, and I hated that we were making so much money.” Meanwhile, she will have retired in a trendy apartment in Paris, having made a tidy sum from her clothing business, thanks to the famous women and fashion people who bought her clothes.

Isabel Marant Portrais and FW campign shot from her website.
Catwalk images from Style.com.
Rachel Bilson image source.
Suede jeans from Net a Porter.

Those of you who know me well have probably heard me complain non-stop about the lack of holidays granted by employers in Canada, and the fact that this is the first time in several years that I haven’t taken a nice 3 week holiday during the month of August. This is definitely the worst part about living in Canada, the worst. In addition to our limited holiday allowance, there is also the fact that we’ve bought a new home, and so cash is tight and any spare time needs to be spent packing, moving, and unpacking. So my dreams of tropical beaches are unlikely to become a reality for at least another few months.

When I think beach photos, I think Mario Testino. And when I think Mario Testino, I think sexy, tanned Brazilian models on the beach. When I was living in Paris I used to share an apartment with one of Mario’s assistants (Alexi Lubomirski, now a well-known photographer) and was friends with the rest of his team. Mario and Carine (Roitfeld) were making waves at the time, because of their Gucci campaigns, but Mario was also known for his glamourous, sexy swimwear shoots featuring a slew of hot Brazilian girls. Alexi was constantly flying to Brazil to do sexy beach shoots with the top models of that time, Gisele, Ana Claudia, Mariana, Fernanda, and a few others. (Which was very depressing, because the both of us were on equally low salaries, but I was ordering zippers and designing diamante motifs at Sonia Rykiel, while he was partying in Sao Paolo.)

Another one of Mario’s assistants whom I was friendly with was Huw Gwyther, now Editor and Founder of Wonderland magazine. He once showed me some pre- and post-retouched photos of a shoot they had done, (the pre-retouch made me feel happy, models are far from perfect!) and he explained to me why it was that Mario’s work was getting so much praise. Mario had a team of retouchers who used to work by hand to perfect all the photos. They wore giant magnifying glasses over their eyes, and painted with one-hair paintbrushes to make sure the girls in the photos looked perfect. I’m sure that this can be better done with Photoshop now, but this was 12 years ago, and at that time, Mario was one of the photographers who was coming out with the most polished images. His secret retouching team was the reason why.

I found this shoot on Bytemodels, which features Ana Claudia Michels and Mariana Weickert, and it is a great example of the types of shoots Mario was doing at the time. It is from British Vogue, the May 2000 issue. Geez, I need a holiday.

All photos by Mario Testino.

BoF Fashion Pioneers | Natalie Massenet in conversation with Imran Amed from The Business of Fashion on Vimeo.

I am getting very excited about my Business of Fashion and the Digital Revolution event on Monday, and as a teaser, I’ve embedded the last Business of Fashion – Fashion Pioneer event, which was with Natalie Massenet from Net a Porter. I spend a many hours a month drooling over the goods on her site, and this interview gives us an insight into how she runs the company, and where things are headed for them and the fashion industry in general.

If you don’t have half an hour to watch the video interview (if you are a fashion student, FIND half an hour) then there is a blog post that includes a summary of the event, read it here.

For those of you attending on Monday, I can’t wait to see you all! Check out this Q&A with Imran on the Flare blog. Thanks again to my sponsors, OPUS Bar, Vancouver College of Art and Design, and Skyy Vodka.